The archaeological site of Veleia Romana lies about 11km south of the unbelievably picturesque medieval hill town of Castell’ Arquata in the foothills of the Apennines. Even though the Ides of March had passed the previous day without incident, Veleia played hard to get. After climbing on a narrow road with frequent hairpin bends, a line of reinforced fencing and a ‘strado curso’ sign about 8km short of my destination offered two options - walk or find another way. Trusting to Waze I followed an increasingly narrow and twisty route over the shoulder of the mountain. Hairy driving in an under powered Fiat but spectacular views. It came down at the right place… which was shut on Mondays. Readers will be aware that closed sites can be a source of challenge rather than a deterrent. The road from the south is however in an elevated position which allows a clear view of the amphitheatre.